The Polish capital
Warsaw is an absolute must for anybody wanting to understand the
country’s history. Here, the trials and tribulations
of modern
Poland are observed more noticeably than anywhere
else in the country. Warsaw has been the capital of
Poland for over four hundred years, when King
Sigismund III Vasa moved the royal court from Krakow
at the end of the 16th century.
The Old Town (Stare Miasto) is the obvious draw for
the first time visitor as it is the one historically
preserved quarter of Warsaw. The primary attraction
here is the Old Town Market Place with its
merchant’s houses framing the square, as well as the
Royal Palace and the
old city walls. One would assume that the buildings
are originals from the 16th and 17th
century but amazingly, virtually none of this is
original as Warsaw was almost completely destroyed
during the Second World War and meticulously rebuilt
afterwards. Warsaw had been seriously bombarded by
the Germans in 1939 but it was the Polish Home Army
Rising in 1944 that resulted in most of the city
being destroyed. By this time of the war the Soviets
were approaching from the east and the Polish
resistance thinking they would receive assistance
from the Russians called for a general uprising.
They managed to take control of a good part of the
city from the Germans but Stalin refused to assist
what he perceived as the anti-communist Polish Home
Army and thus the resistance was cut off and
eventually brutally crushed by the Germans. The end
result was the destruction of most of the city in
house to house fighting and the deaths of several
hundred thousand Warsovians.
The Warsaw Uprising Museum, which opened in 2004, is
an excellent way to become acquainted with this part
of Warsaw’s history, as the compelling exhibits are
all in English as well as in Polish. After the war
the Soviets established a compliant Polish People’s
republic. Warsaw was largely rebuilt in the
Communist style of architecture, and the much of the
buildings are ugly and uninspiring. The most
noteworthy building from this period is the Palace
of Culture and Science, a 757 foot tall skyscraper
built between 1952 and 1955 and modeled after the
Stalinist edifices in Moscow. It serves as a vast
business and exhibition space with a concert hall.
The Polish Academy of Natural Sciences Museum is
housed there as well.
Located further south from the center is one of the
finest parks in Warsaw and indeed all of Europe: the
Lazienki Park. Polish king Stanislaw August
Poniatowski acquired the gardens in the 18th
century adding baths and the neo classical
proportions which the park still retains. An 80
hectare green oasis in the largely concrete city the
park is a wonderful place to stroll, walking along
the tree shaded paths down to the baths, stage and
palaces at the lower end.
180 miles south of
Warsaw and easily accessible by either bus or train is
Poland’s former capital and it’s most historically
significant city,
Krakow. Since the end of the Cold War and the removal of visa
requirements
Krakow has become justifiably one of the most
popular destinations in the new
Europe.
Krakow was the only major city in
Poland to escape serious material destruction
during the Second World
War
and thus retains an architectural and cultural unity
about it not found elsewhere in the country. The oft
recited myth concerning the city’s origins is that
Krakus, a legendary Polish prince, slew a dragon
named Smok Wawelski in a cave underneath Wawel Hill,
the site of the Wawel Cathedral and Castle, a
greatly symbolic place in Polish history.
Many Polish monarchs are buried in the Cathedral,
who ruled from the Castle from 1038 until the
capital was moved to
Warsaw
in 1596. Not far from the Wawel Hill is the
Jagiellonian
University,
founded by King Casimir III in 1364. One of the
great centers of higher learning in Central Europe,
its famous alumni include Copernicus and Pope John
Paul II, who was bishop of Krakow before being
elected Pope in 1978.
A short walk further on and one enters the Main
Market Square of Krakow, the largest medieval square
in
Europe. The most famous building in the square is the Cloth Hall. There
merchants convened to trade goods, especially cloth.
In front of the Hall is a statue of the famous
Polish poet Adam Mickiewicz . Opposite lies St.
Mary’s Basilica, from whose tower everyday on the
hour a trumpeter blows the hejnal tune, and cuts it
off mid note, to commemorate an incident during the
Mongol invasion of the 13th century when
a trumpeter was shot in the throat by an arrow.
The Square is the center of
Krakow. During the height of summer it is full of tourists but it’s not
difficult to get away from the crowds by wandering
away from the main streets. One particular district
of Krakow that leaves a strong impression is the
Kazimierz, which was the traditional center of the
Jewish community in
Krakow from the 14th century until the
Holocaust. Walking around the nearly deserted
streets at night one cannot help but feel a sense
that the quarter is haunted, with the old
synagogues, cemeteries and other vestiges of what
was once a vibrant and thriving Jewish community.
All that was ended with the Nazi German occupation
of Poland and the anti-Semitic (and anti-Polish)
policies that ensued. The egregious outcome of this
genocide lies only a few hours west of
Krakow, at the otherwise unremarkable town of
Oswiecim, better known by its German name of
Auschwitz-Birkenau. It was at this concentration
camp that perhaps over a million people were killed,
mostly Jews, but also ethnic Poles, homosexuals and
other “social undesirables”. There is perhaps
something distasteful about the idea of a death camp
being a tourist attraction, but nevertheless the
site is a popular day trip from Krakow, with
numerous buses departing from the city center
directly to the camp. Be in a contemplative and
sober mood and the experience is not one to be
forgotten quickly.
The tragedy of modern
Poland,
seemingly over with the end of communist rule, is
now to be replaced by one of the success stories of
the new Europe. Any visit to Poland is bound to be
rewarding, with Poland’s two most significant cities
a good introduction to the country and basis for
further exploration.
About the author:
Ryan Eyre is a self-professed Europhile whose
recents peregrinations have taken him to most of the
countries of Europe. He hopes to return there on a
more permanent basis in the near future. When not
contemplating European history and culture, he is a
resident of his hometown Seattle. |